Senin, 02 Desember 2013

Traditional costumes in North Sulawesi


              Speaking customs and culture of North Sulawesi , we may not be able to discuss the tribe as a representative of the four tribes of indigenous people of North Sulawesi . These four tribes are natives ; Minahasa tribe , Gorontalo , Sangir Talaud , and Mongondow . Into four tribes have their own traditions , although in some cases there are similarities . So even when we talk about custom clothing .

             But this paper , we categorize the good custom clothing and jewelry according to functionality and usefulness , namely ; everyday wear , ceremonial dress , and marriage ceremony attire . So that it is easy to see the difference that became typical variety in each region and find kesamaann among these particularities .People's daily clothing Bolaang Mongondow in earlier times were made of wood and leather and water -soaked pineapple few days then pounded and opened fiber . The fibers are then woven diebut lanut and become a sheet of cloth . But the fabric is made ​​from fibers lanut had not found anymore , because people Bolaang Mongondow have used cotton clothes ( cotton ) as their everyday clothes .


        
Gorontalo public ceremonial dress serves to check the status of someone in traditional ceremonies . The indigenous stakeholders bate - bate or wearing clothing with patterns and motifs are colored ; shaped brackets shirt , calf-length shorts leg ( batik ) commonly called talola calculi . While white robes or sandaria worn by religious leaders . And a black coat , black pants outfit is the security officials . But the heads of the village wearing a batik shirt dress shape brackets , white pants and wear gloves payungu aka fish head , indicating that they are ready to run the command ( Mahiya on waumatihimanga motubuhe tahilio lo ito Eya).


           In a traditional ceremony , Mongondow Bolaang tribes wear traditional clothes made ​​of cotton cloth and raw materials tetoron . For men's apparel, usually called baniang . While for women called salu , to be made ​​kebaya , gloves , and scarves . In a traditional ceremony , men wearing headbands or Lenso sort of cloth or tied in the head . Also pomerus or adhesive cloth tied at the waist . While women wear salu with complementary fabric adhesive senket . On the chest decorated with gold called hamunse .


        In the marriage ceremony , Gorontalo tribes have traditional clothes called marriage uapacara urasipungu comprising ; bride kebaya made ​​of sateen and ornate silver plated . While the groom wore a sort of parenthesis shirt of the same material with the bride called kimunu . The bride also wore sarongs made ​​of satin . In addition the following complementary dalah Paluala which serves as the bride's headdress made ​​of satin fabric with a decorative biliu edit or silver . Other ornaments are kecubu , velvet cloth with silver decoration hanging on the neck of the bride.






Toraja Traditional Clothing


       Traditional clothes and dance - T- Shirt Pokko called Toraja traditional ' for women and seppa tallung book for men . Clothes Pokko ' a shirt with short sleeves . While seppa tallung a book -length pants to the knees . This outfit is equipped with other accessories , such as kandaure , lipa ' , Gayang and so on .
Toraja traditional clothing that has been modified and worn by Johanica Yanuar , ambassador of Indonesia in the event of Manhunt International 2011 which was held in South Korea ) , attracted the attention of the audience who berasaldari 48 countries .

       Toraja tribe is a tribe that settled in the mountains of the northern part of South Sulawesi , Indonesia . Its population is estimated at around 1 million people , with 500,000 of them still living in Tana Toraja , North Toraja Regency , and Regency Mamasa.Mayoritas Toraja embraced Christianity , while some embraced Islam and animism known as Aluk To Dolo . The Indonesian government has recognized this belief as part of Hinduism Dharma .

        The word comes from the Bugis language Toraja , to Riaja , which means "one who dwells in the land above " . The Dutch colonial government named the Toraja tribe in 1909 . Toraja is famous for funeral rites , customs house tongkonan and carving wood . Toraja funeral rites are important social events , usually attended by hundreds of people and lasting for several days . Before the 20th century , the Toraja lived in autonomous villages . They still adhered to animism and untouched by the outside world . In the early 1900s , Dutch missionaries came and spread Christianity . After more open to the outside world in the 1970s , Tana Toraja district became a symbol of Indonesian tourism .

         Tana Toraja exploited by tourism developers and studied by anthropologists . Toraja society since the 1990s transformed the culture , from traditional belief and agrarian society , became predominantly Christian society and relying on the growing tourism sector . " Many compliments were conveyed through the media including websites bebeberapa about national costume used by the participants of Indonesia , the world level contest talented man , Manhunt International 2011 , held in Seoul , South Korea , on 28 September to 10 October 2011 and the final night was held on Monday night at one of the elite area of ​​Seoul .


      The results of a community survey beauty contest on its website on Sunday night www.indopageants.com predicted national dress worn Indonesian ambassador will be the Best National Costume . " We hope this Toraja dress will be the best in this event , after several consecutive years of national costume Indonesian ambassador always occupied first runner-up , " he said . which is 182 cm tall, was wearing clothing design themed Mystical Toraja .
Clothing is a modification of Toraja traditional clothing seppa tallung book that comes with wings and horns impressive grandeur and majesty of one of the Indonesian culture .

       Widi added , choice of clothing inspired by the culture of Toraja was also once expected to draw the world's attention on keaneragamanan Indonesian culture so that they are keen to come and make a trip to the country . " Some times teams from other countries also praised national . Meanwhile , the Ministry of Culture and Tourism appreciate and support the positive efforts of tourism promotion through event Manhunt International . Expected to deliver a message and introduce Indonesia, especially in terms of cultural diversity and natural wealth "wonderful " to the world community at large.
" Moreover, Indonesian participants also feature one of the wonderful richness of Indonesian culture that especially from Toraja , South Sulawesi , " he said .

Jumat, 29 November 2013

Baju adat makassar



Baju Bodo adalah pakaian adat suku Bugis-Makassar dan diperkirakan sebagai salah satu busana tertua di dunia. Perkiraan itu didukung oleh sejarah kain Muslim yang menjadi bahan dasar baju bodo.Pakaian ini kerap dipakai untuk acara adat seperti upacara pernikahan. Tetapi kini, baju bodo mulai direvitalisasi melalui acara lainnya seperti lomba menari atau menyambut tamu agung. Dulu, baju bodo bisa dipakai tanpa penutup payudara. Hal ini sudah sempat diperhatikan James Brookee (yang kemudian diangkat sultan Brunei menjadi raja Sarawak) tahun 1840 saat dia mengunjungi istana Bone"Perempuan [Bugis] mengenakan pakaian sederhana... Sehelai sarung [menutupi pinggang] hingga kaki dan baju tipis longgar dari kain muslin (kasa), memperlihatkan payudara dan leluk-lekuk dada. Rupanya cara memakai baju bodo ini masih berlaku pada tahun 1930-an.

Jenis kain yang dikenal dengan sebutan kain Muslin (Eropa), Maisolos (Yunani Kuno), Masalia (India Timur), atau Ruhm (Arab) pertama kali diperdagangkan di kota Dhaka, Bangladesh. Hal ini merujuk pada catatan seorang pedagang Arab bernama Sulaiman pada abad ke-19. Sementara pada tahun 1298, dalam buku yang berjudul “The Travel of Marco Polo”, Marco Polo menggambarkan kalau kain Muslin dibuat di Mosul (Irak) dan diperdagangkan oleh pedagang yang disebut Musolini. Namun kain yang ditenun dari pilinan kapas yang dijalin dengan benang katun ini sudah lebih dahulu dikenal oleh masyarakat Sulawesi Selatan, yakni pada pertengahan abad ke-9, jauh sebelum masyarakat Eropa yang baru mengenalnya pada abad ke-17, dan populer di Perancis pada abad ke-18. Kain Muslin memiliki rongga-rongga dan jarak benang-benangnya yang renggang membuatnya terlihat transparan dan cocok dipakai di daerah tropis dan daerah-daerah yang beriklim panas. 

Sesuai dengan namanya “bodo” yang berarti pendek, baju ini memang berlengan pendek. Dahulu Baju Bodo dipakai tanpa baju dalaman sehingga memperlihatkan payudara dan lekuk-lekuk dada pemakainya, dan dipadukan dengan sehelai sarung yang menutupi bagian pinggang ke bawah badan. Namun seiring dengan masuknya pengaruh Islam di daerah ini, baju yang tadinya memperlihatkan aurat pun mengalami perubahan. Busana transparan ini kemudian dipasangkan dengan baju dalaman berwarna sama, namun lebih terang. Sedangkan busana bagian bawahnya berupa sarung sutera berwarna senada. Baju Bodo memang pakaian tradisional khusus untuk perempuan yang dalam penggunaannya memiliki aturan berdasarkan warna yang melambangkan tingkat usia dan kasta perempuan pemakainya.

Warna jingga untuk perempuan berusia 10 tahun, jingga dan merah darah untuk perempuan berusia 10 sampai 14 tahun, merah darah untuk perempuan berusia 17 sampai 25 tahun, warna putih dipakai para inang dan dukun, warna hijau khusus dipakai para puteri bangsawan, dan warna ungu dipakai oleh para janda.Pakaian tradisional ini sering dipakai untuk acara adat, seperti upacara pernikahan. Tetapi sekarang, penggunaan Baju Bodo mulai meluas untuk berbagai kegiatan, misalnya lomba menari atau upacara penyambutan tamu-tamu kehormatan. Meski belakangan ini semakin terpinggirkan akibat pengaruh busana-busana modern, tetapi di kampung-kampung Bugis yang jauh dari perkembangan dan tren mode busana, Baju Bodo masih dikenakan oleh para pengantin perempuan saat upacara akad nikah dan resepsi pernikahan, begitu juga dengan ibu pengantin, pendamping mempelai, dan para pagar ayu.
Baju Bodo, busana dengan potongan simetris sederhana, dengan efek menggelembung dan longgar, berasal dari etnis Sulawesi Selatan ini, diketahui ternyata merupakan salah satu busana tertua di dunia. Dalam Festival Busana Nusantara 2007 lalu di Kuta – Bali,  perancang busana kenamaan Oscar Lawalata menegaskan, “Baju bodo itu adalah salah satu baju tertua di dunia… dan dunia internasional belum mengetahuinya,”.
Baju Bodo atau yang dikenal dengan nama baju Tokko sudah dikenal masyarakat Sulawesi Selatan pada pertengahan abad IX, hal ini diperkuat dari sejarah kainMuslin, kain yang digunakan sebagai bahan dasar baju bodo itu sendiri. Kain Muslin adalah lembaran kain hasil tenunan dari pilinan kapas yang dijalin dengan benang katun. Memiliki rongga dan kerapatan benang yang renggang menjadikan kain Muslin sangat cocok untuk daerah tropis dan daerah beriklim kering.

Variety of custom clothing makassar

In South Sulawesi, Makassar tribes inhabited the district :> Takalar> Jeneponto> Bantaeng> Pangkajene> Maros> Gowa> Islands a screen .


Makassar 


makassar traditional dresses
In Makassar culture , traditional clothing is one aspect that is quite important . Not only serves to decorate the body , but also the completeness of a traditional ceremony . The meaning here is the customary fashion as clothing accessory worn in a variety of traditional ceremonies such as marriage , pick up guests , or the days of other customary . Basically , the existence and use of custom clothing at a particular ceremony will symbolize the grandeur of the ceremony itself .Seeing their habits in dress , in fact it can be said that the customary fashion Napier suggests similarities with the clothes worn by the Bugis . Nevertheless , there are some characteristics , form and style , fashion typical of Napier and cultural support can not be equated with the fashion community property Bugis .In the first period , the customary fashion Makasar can indicate marital status , even the wearer's social status in the society . That is because the people of Makassar divided into three social strata . The third social strata is ono Karaeng , the layer occupied by relatives of the king and nobles ; Maradeka tu , ie, layer or the most independent person , and atu or group of slaves , the layers people who lost the battle , unable to pay the debt , and in violation of customs . But today , wear clothing that no longer represents a person's social standing , but rather indicates the wearer's taste .Meanwhile , based on the wearer's gender , Makasar customary fashion of course can be divided into men's and women's fashion clothing . Each of these has its own characteristics clothing , men's clothing with a custom shirt and suit tutunya bella chest while her customary fashion with a dress shirt and labbunya bodo .traditional dressestraditional dressesNapier man traditional clothing consists of shirts , pants or paroci , sarongs or lipa garusuk , and headgear or passapu . Clothes worn on the upper body shaped tutu suit jacket and cap or shirt bella sides of the chest or chest . Models that appear clothes are long-sleeved , berkrah neck , pockets on the right and left clothes , and buttons were made ​​of gold or silver and mounted on a collar . Overview of the model is the same for both types of men's clothing , good for coats and dresses bella tutu chest . Only in terms of color and materials used in the differences between the two. Materials to suit tutu is usually thick and dark blue or brown . The chest bella dress material looks thinner , which is derived from fabric or lipa lipa sabbe garusuk a plain , light-colored and flashy like red , and green .Specifically to cover the head , commonly used materials derived from pasapu fabric made ​​from woven palm leaf fibers . When headgear in customary fashion men adorned with gold thread Makasar , people call mbiring . But if the state does not reverse or headgear decorated with gold thread , pasapu teacher called. Usually , the teacher is wearing pasapu their status as a teacher in the village . Use of headgear in menswear have meanings and certain symbols that symbolize the social status of the wearer .Customary fashion completeness Napier man who never forgot to wear jewelry like a dagger is , bracelet , sash or rante sembang , ornate handkerchief or passapu Ambara , and decorations on head coverings or sigarak . Keris is a dagger that is always used with the head and the gloves are made ​​of gold , known as pasattimpo or tatarapeng . This type of dagger is a sacred heirloom by its owner , it can even hung a kind of talisman called Maili . So that kris is not easily separated and remain in place , it is given a binder called talibannang . The bracelet is a jewelry Macassar men , usually in the form of dragons and snakes made ​​of gold or called ponto dragon . Napier man picture customary fashion complete with all kinds of jewelry like that , it seems clear to a man who was holding a wedding ceremony . More precisely worn as a fashion groom .Meanwhile , women's traditional clothing consists of clothing and Makasar gloves or lipa . There are two types of clothing worn by women , the clothes and clothing bodo labbu with its own uniqueness . Rectangular bodo clothes , no sleeveless , side stitched fabric , and at the top of the hole to insert the head as well as a collar . As for the clothes labbu also called long bodo clothes , usually a long -sleeved shirt and tight brackets ranging from elbow to wrist . The basic ingredients are often used to make clothes that are labbu like chiffon , dark colored with shades of flowers . Women from all walks of life can wear any clothes labbu .Couples bodo clothes and clothes are labbu sarong or lipa , made ​​from ordinary yarn or lipa garusuk or silk sarong or lipa sabbe with varying colors and patterns . But in general , the basic color of sarong Napier was black, dark brown , or dark blue , with a decorative motif which is called complexion cadii kecilkecil .As with men , women also wear various jewelry makasar to complete the look of clothing she was wearing jewelry elements contained in the head is a crown ( Saloko ) , bun adorned with a flower stalk ( betel rocking ) , and long earrings ( bangkarak ) . Jewelry such as necklaces on neck chain ( geno ma ' Caucasians ) , a long necklace ( rantekote ) , and a big necklace ( geno sibatu ) , and various other accessories . The use of custom clothing Napier woman complete with a variety of accessories are seen on the bride's dress . Similarly, the bridesmaids , it's just that wearing jewelry is not as complete as it is .