Baju adat makassar

Baju Bodo adalah pakaian adat suku Bugis-Makassar dan diperkirakan sebagai salah satu busana tertua di dunia. Perkiraan itu didukung oleh sejarah kain Muslim yang menjadi bahan dasar baju bodo.Pakaian ini kerap dipakai untuk acara adat seperti upacara pernikahan. Tetapi kini, baju bodo mulai direvitalisasi melalui acara lainnya seperti lomba menari atau menyambut tamu agung. Dulu, baju bodo bisa dipakai tanpa penutup payudara. Hal ini sudah sempat diperhatikan James Brookee (yang kemudian diangkat sultan Brunei menjadi raja Sarawak) tahun 1840 saat dia mengunjungi istana Bone"Perempuan [Bugis] mengenakan pakaian sederhana... Sehelai sarung [menutupi pinggang] hingga kaki dan baju tipis longgar dari kain muslin (kasa), memperlihatkan payudara dan leluk-lekuk dada. Rupanya cara memakai baju bodo ini masih berlaku pada tahun 1930-an.

Jenis kain yang dikenal dengan sebutan kain Muslin (Eropa), Maisolos (Yunani Kuno), Masalia (India Timur), atau Ruhm (Arab) pertama kali diperdagangkan di kota Dhaka, Bangladesh. Hal ini merujuk pada catatan seorang pedagang Arab bernama Sulaiman pada abad ke-19. Sementara pada tahun 1298, dalam buku yang berjudul “The Travel of Marco Polo”, Marco Polo menggambarkan kalau kain Muslin dibuat di Mosul (Irak) dan diperdagangkan oleh pedagang yang disebut Musolini. Namun kain yang ditenun dari pilinan kapas yang dijalin dengan benang katun ini sudah lebih dahulu dikenal oleh masyarakat Sulawesi Selatan, yakni pada pertengahan abad ke-9, jauh sebelum masyarakat Eropa yang baru mengenalnya pada abad ke-17, dan populer di Perancis pada abad ke-18. Kain Muslin memiliki rongga-rongga dan jarak benang-benangnya yang renggang membuatnya terlihat transparan dan cocok dipakai di daerah tropis dan daerah-daerah yang beriklim panas. 

Sesuai dengan namanya “bodo” yang berarti pendek, baju ini memang berlengan pendek. Dahulu Baju Bodo dipakai tanpa baju dalaman sehingga memperlihatkan payudara dan lekuk-lekuk dada pemakainya, dan dipadukan dengan sehelai sarung yang menutupi bagian pinggang ke bawah badan. Namun seiring dengan masuknya pengaruh Islam di daerah ini, baju yang tadinya memperlihatkan aurat pun mengalami perubahan. Busana transparan ini kemudian dipasangkan dengan baju dalaman berwarna sama, namun lebih terang. Sedangkan busana bagian bawahnya berupa sarung sutera berwarna senada. Baju Bodo memang pakaian tradisional khusus untuk perempuan yang dalam penggunaannya memiliki aturan berdasarkan warna yang melambangkan tingkat usia dan kasta perempuan pemakainya.

Warna jingga untuk perempuan berusia 10 tahun, jingga dan merah darah untuk perempuan berusia 10 sampai 14 tahun, merah darah untuk perempuan berusia 17 sampai 25 tahun, warna putih dipakai para inang dan dukun, warna hijau khusus dipakai para puteri bangsawan, dan warna ungu dipakai oleh para janda.Pakaian tradisional ini sering dipakai untuk acara adat, seperti upacara pernikahan. Tetapi sekarang, penggunaan Baju Bodo mulai meluas untuk berbagai kegiatan, misalnya lomba menari atau upacara penyambutan tamu-tamu kehormatan. Meski belakangan ini semakin terpinggirkan akibat pengaruh busana-busana modern, tetapi di kampung-kampung Bugis yang jauh dari perkembangan dan tren mode busana, Baju Bodo masih dikenakan oleh para pengantin perempuan saat upacara akad nikah dan resepsi pernikahan, begitu juga dengan ibu pengantin, pendamping mempelai, dan para pagar ayu.

Baju Bodo, busana dengan potongan simetris sederhana, dengan efek menggelembung dan longgar, berasal dari etnis Sulawesi Selatan ini, diketahui ternyata merupakan salah satu busana tertua di dunia. Dalam Festival Busana Nusantara 2007 lalu di Kuta – Bali,  perancang busana kenamaan Oscar Lawalata menegaskan, “Baju bodo itu adalah salah satu baju tertua di dunia… dan dunia internasional belum mengetahuinya,”.
Baju Bodo atau yang dikenal dengan nama baju Tokko sudah dikenal masyarakat Sulawesi Selatan pada pertengahan abad IX, hal ini diperkuat dari sejarah kainMuslin, kain yang digunakan sebagai bahan dasar baju bodo itu sendiri. Kain Muslin adalah lembaran kain hasil tenunan dari pilinan kapas yang dijalin dengan benang katun. Memiliki rongga dan kerapatan benang yang renggang menjadikan kain Muslin sangat cocok untuk daerah tropis dan daerah beriklim kering.

Variety of custom clothing makassar

In South Sulawesi, Makassar tribes inhabited the district :> Takalar> Jeneponto> Bantaeng> Pangkajene> Maros> Gowa> Islands a screen .

 

makassar traditional dresses
In Makassar culture , traditional clothing is one aspect that is quite important . Not only serves to decorate the body , but also the completeness of a traditional ceremony . The meaning here is the customary fashion as clothing accessory worn in a variety of traditional ceremonies such as marriage , pick up guests , or the days of other customary . Basically , the existence and use of custom clothing at a particular ceremony will symbolize the grandeur of the ceremony itself .Seeing their habits in dress , in fact it can be said that the customary fashion Napier suggests similarities with the clothes worn by the Bugis . Nevertheless , there are some characteristics , form and style , fashion typical of Napier and cultural support can not be equated with the fashion community property Bugis .In the first period , the customary fashion Makasar can indicate marital status , even the wearer's social status in the society . That is because the people of Makassar divided into three social strata . The third social strata is ono Karaeng , the layer occupied by relatives of the king and nobles ; Maradeka tu , ie, layer or the most independent person , and atu or group of slaves , the layers people who lost the battle , unable to pay the debt , and in violation of customs . But today , wear clothing that no longer represents a person's social standing , but rather indicates the wearer's taste .Meanwhile , based on the wearer's gender , Makasar customary fashion of course can be divided into men's and women's fashion clothing . Each of these has its own characteristics clothing , men's clothing with a custom shirt and suit tutunya bella chest while her customary fashion with a dress shirt and labbunya bodo .traditional dressestraditional dressesNapier man traditional clothing consists of shirts , pants or paroci , sarongs or lipa garusuk , and headgear or passapu . Clothes worn on the upper body shaped tutu suit jacket and cap or shirt bella sides of the chest or chest . Models that appear clothes are long-sleeved , berkrah neck , pockets on the right and left clothes , and buttons were made ​​of gold or silver and mounted on a collar . Overview of the model is the same for both types of men's clothing , good for coats and dresses bella tutu chest . Only in terms of color and materials used in the differences between the two. Materials to suit tutu is usually thick and dark blue or brown . The chest bella dress material looks thinner , which is derived from fabric or lipa lipa sabbe garusuk a plain , light-colored and flashy like red , and green .Specifically to cover the head , commonly used materials derived from pasapu fabric made ​​from woven palm leaf fibers . When headgear in customary fashion men adorned with gold thread Makasar , people call mbiring . But if the state does not reverse or headgear decorated with gold thread , pasapu teacher called. Usually , the teacher is wearing pasapu their status as a teacher in the village . Use of headgear in menswear have meanings and certain symbols that symbolize the social status of the wearer .Customary fashion completeness Napier man who never forgot to wear jewelry like a dagger is , bracelet , sash or rante sembang , ornate handkerchief or passapu Ambara , and decorations on head coverings or sigarak . Keris is a dagger that is always used with the head and the gloves are made ​​of gold , known as pasattimpo or tatarapeng . This type of dagger is a sacred heirloom by its owner , it can even hung a kind of talisman called Maili . So that kris is not easily separated and remain in place , it is given a binder called talibannang . The bracelet is a jewelry Macassar men , usually in the form of dragons and snakes made ​​of gold or called ponto dragon . Napier man picture customary fashion complete with all kinds of jewelry like that , it seems clear to a man who was holding a wedding ceremony . More precisely worn as a fashion groom .Meanwhile , women's traditional clothing consists of clothing and Makasar gloves or lipa . There are two types of clothing worn by women , the clothes and clothing bodo labbu with its own uniqueness . Rectangular bodo clothes , no sleeveless , side stitched fabric , and at the top of the hole to insert the head as well as a collar . As for the clothes labbu also called long bodo clothes , usually a long -sleeved shirt and tight brackets ranging from elbow to wrist . The basic ingredients are often used to make clothes that are labbu like chiffon , dark colored with shades of flowers . Women from all walks of life can wear any clothes labbu .Couples bodo clothes and clothes are labbu sarong or lipa , made ​​from ordinary yarn or lipa garusuk or silk sarong or lipa sabbe with varying colors and patterns . But in general , the basic color of sarong Napier was black, dark brown , or dark blue , with a decorative motif which is called complexion cadii kecilkecil .As with men , women also wear various jewelry makasar to complete the look of clothing she was wearing jewelry elements contained in the head is a crown ( Saloko ) , bun adorned with a flower stalk ( betel rocking ) , and long earrings ( bangkarak ) . Jewelry such as necklaces on neck chain ( geno ma ' Caucasians ) , a long necklace ( rantekote ) , and a big necklace ( geno sibatu ) , and various other accessories . The use of custom clothing Napier woman complete with a variety of accessories are seen on the bride's dress . Similarly, the bridesmaids , it's just that wearing jewelry is not as complete as it is .